Bird with small bill, black back and head, white forehead and belly and red breast facing right on branch
Scarlet Robin, Petroica boodang
Scientific classification
Domain: Eukaryota
Kingdom: Animalia
Subkingdom: Eumetazoa
(unranked) Bilateria
Superphylum: Deuterostomia
Phylum: Chordata
Subphylum: Vertebrata
Infraphylum: Gnathostomata
Superclass: Tetrapoda
(unranked) Amniota
(unranked) Diapsida
(unranked) Archosauria
Class: Aves
Linnaeus, 1758[1]
Subclasses & orders
* About two dozen modern orders and several extinct orders and subclasses
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Birds (class Aves) are winged, bipedal, endothermic (warm-blooded), egg-laying, vertebrate animals. There are around 10,000 living species, making them the most numerous tetrapod vertebrates. They inhabit ecosystems across the globe, from the Arctic to the Antarctic. Extant birds range in size from the 5 cm (2 in) Bee Hummingbird to the 3 m (10 ft) Ostrich. The fossil record indicates that birds evolved from theropod dinosaurs during the Jurassic period, around 150–200 Ma (million years ago), and the earliest known bird is the Late Jurassic Archaeopteryx, c 150–145 Ma. Most paleontologists regard birds as the only clade of dinosaurs to have survived the Cretaceous–Tertiary extinction event approximately 65.5 Ma.
Modern birds are characterised by feathers, a beak with no teeth, the laying of hard-shelled eggs, a high metabolic rate, a four-chambered heart, and a lightweight but strong skeleton. All birds have forelimbs modified as wings and most can fly, with some exceptions including ratites, penguins, and a number of diverse endemic island species. Birds also have unique digestive and respiratory systems that are highly adapted for flight. Some birds, especially corvids and parrots, are among the most intelligent animal species; a number of bird species have been observed manufacturing and using tools, and many social species exhibit cultural transmission of knowledge across generations.
Many species undertake long distance annual migrations, and many more perform shorter irregular movements. Birds are social; they communicate using visual signals and through calls and songs, and participate in social behaviours including cooperative breeding and hunting, flocking, and mobbing of predators. The vast majority of bird species are socially monogamous, usually for one breeding season at a time, sometimes for years, but rarely for life. Other species have breeding systems that are polygynous ("many females") or, rarely, polyandrous ("many males"). Eggs are usually laid in a nest and incubated by the parents. Most birds have an extended period of parental care after hatching.
Many species are of economic importance, mostly as sources of food acquired through hunting or farming. Some species, particularly songbirds and parrots, are popular as pets. Other uses include the harvesting of guano (droppings) for use as a fertiliser. Birds figure prominently in all aspects of human culture from religion to poetry to popular music. About 120–130 species have become extinct as a result of human activity since the 17th century, and hundreds more before then. Currently about 1,200 species of birds are threatened with extinction by human activities, though efforts are underway to protect them.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Iguana Know List
If you own an pet iguana or plan on purchasing one, you must first become knowledgeable on iguanas. Knowing the facts is only half the battle to raising a nice, respectable pet, you must also be able to implement them. So read the below facts on iguanas and see if you are up to the task in raising this great reptile. If you find out that an iguana might be too much for you, then simply do not get one! Further, if you already have this great pet, educate yourself a little bit. You must read below.
Iguana fact #1: These reptiles belong to the group Iguanidae, which comes from the group lizards. Further, this is where the name iguana comes from, if it was already not obvious enough. Though these reptile's limbs are short, they have enormous power in them and attached are their sharp claws. These claws are used for mainly climbing, but watch out as you could potentially get one of these claws dug into you.
Iguana fact #2: The reptile's tail is its defensive weapon. An iguana's tail is extremely powerful for its size and it will whip it around at high speeds if it feels threaten. The tails are also useful to the iguana when they swim, which iguana's love to do.
Iguana fact #3: Iguana males are much larger than their opposite sex.
Iguana fact #4: These reptiles are strictly herbivores, meaning that they shall never eat any meat. Iguanas love most green vegetables and fruits. Never feed your pet iguana any dog or cat food, a common mistake.
Iguana fact #5: These reptiles love to hide, therefore your cage should have hiding places for your pet.
Get use to the above facts and you will understand iguanas a little more. Remember if you plan on getting this reptile, you must learn about this amazing pet first. Good luck in raising your reptile!
Iguana fact #1: These reptiles belong to the group Iguanidae, which comes from the group lizards. Further, this is where the name iguana comes from, if it was already not obvious enough. Though these reptile's limbs are short, they have enormous power in them and attached are their sharp claws. These claws are used for mainly climbing, but watch out as you could potentially get one of these claws dug into you.
Iguana fact #2: The reptile's tail is its defensive weapon. An iguana's tail is extremely powerful for its size and it will whip it around at high speeds if it feels threaten. The tails are also useful to the iguana when they swim, which iguana's love to do.
Iguana fact #3: Iguana males are much larger than their opposite sex.
Iguana fact #4: These reptiles are strictly herbivores, meaning that they shall never eat any meat. Iguanas love most green vegetables and fruits. Never feed your pet iguana any dog or cat food, a common mistake.
Iguana fact #5: These reptiles love to hide, therefore your cage should have hiding places for your pet.
Get use to the above facts and you will understand iguanas a little more. Remember if you plan on getting this reptile, you must learn about this amazing pet first. Good luck in raising your reptile!
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
What Do Iguanas Eat? You Need to Know
In order for your pet iguana to survive and thrive in its new life, you as the owner must provide your pet with the right nutrients. So how do you know what is safe and what is not safe for your pet iguana? Well first off use this article as a reference, but also do some research. Providing your iguana with the best food is crucial and a must. Read the below foods on what do iguanas eat.
Iguanas will eat most any fruit or vegetable you give them. This does not mean though that this is necessarily good for them. A good diet for your pet iguana will consist of a variety of foods and nutrition.
Iguanas will eat and love squash of any kind and your pet will also enjoy all greens including: collard, mustard, beet and dandelions.
Now just as important as what to give your pet iguana, it is equally important as to know what to not feed your precious pet.
Note try to avoid regular feeding of broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, mushrooms, cucumbers, zucchini and bell peppers. You should use these food types only as a treat, not part of the diet.
Now for the foods you should NEVER feed your pet iguanas:
1. Dog or cat food
2. Dairy products
3. Wild flowers
Treat your iguana as your baby. Also note that you must keep your iguana's food clean. In other words if you have left out your iguana's food for too long it must be replaced! Follow these tips and watch your iguana grow up to be healthy!
Iguanas will eat most any fruit or vegetable you give them. This does not mean though that this is necessarily good for them. A good diet for your pet iguana will consist of a variety of foods and nutrition.
Iguanas will eat and love squash of any kind and your pet will also enjoy all greens including: collard, mustard, beet and dandelions.
Now just as important as what to give your pet iguana, it is equally important as to know what to not feed your precious pet.
Note try to avoid regular feeding of broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, mushrooms, cucumbers, zucchini and bell peppers. You should use these food types only as a treat, not part of the diet.
Now for the foods you should NEVER feed your pet iguanas:
1. Dog or cat food
2. Dairy products
3. Wild flowers
Treat your iguana as your baby. Also note that you must keep your iguana's food clean. In other words if you have left out your iguana's food for too long it must be replaced! Follow these tips and watch your iguana grow up to be healthy!
Monday, March 15, 2010
7 Lizard Care Tips
One of the best attributes in having a pet lizard at home is the diversity of this animal. Caring for lizards as pets can be one of the most unique experiences a pet lover would have. These reptiles are very distinctive animals with specific needs and functions.
Knowing all these peculiarities, you can help to provide your pet lizard with good health and well being. Lizard care can be a daunting experience but it is fulfilling. Here are 7 tips on how to provide the best care for your pet lizards at home:
Tip#1: If you want to have pet lizard at home, then start by getting a lizard which is very easy care for. The Australian bearded dragon is one of the best lizards to deal with. Blue-tongue skinks can grow up to 13 inches in size. This type of reptile can resist stress as long as they are properly handled. These lizards are tame and they eat various types of food which include vegetables, fruits, insects and small mice.
Tip#2: If you don't have much experience you may be best avoiding the lizard species which are quite difficult and challenging to keep. Species to avoid include Nile monitors, iguanas, chameleons and small species which have around 3-8 inches in length.
Tip#3: Before you acquire a pet lizard, try to know more about the species which might suit what you need. In this way, you can assess how easy or challenging it would be to have that kind of lizard at home.
Tip#4: Keep in mind that snakes and lizards are quite related animal groups but owning a lizard at home and the care it needs is totally different. Lizards would prefer to eat every day unlike with snakes which require food once a week or a month. Always keep the terrarium where you keep your lizards free of rotting and dirty food items. The germs and bacteria might contaminate the environment and the lizards could get sick.
Tip#5: Never hold or grab your pet lizard by its tail. Though their tail will not break off, it could be a very awkward position when you try to interact with your lizard. Proper holding of your lizard should be done by putting one hand under the belly area to support the entire weight of the lizard.
Tip#6: A lot of people are not comfortable around reptiles, thus avoid using lizards to pull a prank on someone. You should introduce your lizard to people gently and educate them on how wonderful these reptiles are.
Tip#7: Avoid releasing your reptile into the wild. Keep in mind that most of these pets are not accustomed to its natural habitat. If you release your lizard into the wild, you must know that it might not survive. For example diurnal lizards need ultraviolet light so they can maintain a temperature of 78 degrees F.
Knowing all these peculiarities, you can help to provide your pet lizard with good health and well being. Lizard care can be a daunting experience but it is fulfilling. Here are 7 tips on how to provide the best care for your pet lizards at home:
Tip#1: If you want to have pet lizard at home, then start by getting a lizard which is very easy care for. The Australian bearded dragon is one of the best lizards to deal with. Blue-tongue skinks can grow up to 13 inches in size. This type of reptile can resist stress as long as they are properly handled. These lizards are tame and they eat various types of food which include vegetables, fruits, insects and small mice.
Tip#2: If you don't have much experience you may be best avoiding the lizard species which are quite difficult and challenging to keep. Species to avoid include Nile monitors, iguanas, chameleons and small species which have around 3-8 inches in length.
Tip#3: Before you acquire a pet lizard, try to know more about the species which might suit what you need. In this way, you can assess how easy or challenging it would be to have that kind of lizard at home.
Tip#4: Keep in mind that snakes and lizards are quite related animal groups but owning a lizard at home and the care it needs is totally different. Lizards would prefer to eat every day unlike with snakes which require food once a week or a month. Always keep the terrarium where you keep your lizards free of rotting and dirty food items. The germs and bacteria might contaminate the environment and the lizards could get sick.
Tip#5: Never hold or grab your pet lizard by its tail. Though their tail will not break off, it could be a very awkward position when you try to interact with your lizard. Proper holding of your lizard should be done by putting one hand under the belly area to support the entire weight of the lizard.
Tip#6: A lot of people are not comfortable around reptiles, thus avoid using lizards to pull a prank on someone. You should introduce your lizard to people gently and educate them on how wonderful these reptiles are.
Tip#7: Avoid releasing your reptile into the wild. Keep in mind that most of these pets are not accustomed to its natural habitat. If you release your lizard into the wild, you must know that it might not survive. For example diurnal lizards need ultraviolet light so they can maintain a temperature of 78 degrees F.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Tips to Help Build Your Own Rabbit Hutch and Make Sure Your Rabbits Are Safe From Predators
Protecting your rabbits from predators is one of the most important reasons for building a rabbit hutch. Even if your pet lives indoors, your rabbit can be stalked or injured by pet cats and dogs. Mice in the house may stress your pet.
Outdoors, rabbits face many more possible predators. Hawks, eagles, foxes, coyotes, raccoons, opossums, weasels and skunks may like a tasty rabbit dinner. Cats and dogs are also at risk for attacking your pet. They can't help it; it is their nature to hunt and rabbits are prey animals at the bottom of the food chain. It falls to the owners of the animals to keep them safe; or in the case of the dogs and cats, to keep them contained and away from rabbits and other animals they may hunt.
You can do a lot to protect your pet by building a secure rabbit hutch. Putting the hutch on legs helps get them off the ground where they are more tempting to smaller predators. You can even wrap the legs with chicken wire or hardware cloth to keep animals from going beneath the hutch. You can easily open one side when it is time to clean up the droppings unless you use a tray.
Make sure your hutch is built securely. Use strong wood screws when building it, not brads or small nails. Wood screws bite into the wood and don't work loose as easily as nails and brads. Use high quality wood and wire. Thick plywood and 2 x 4s will create a much stronger hutch than thin plywood and 1 x 1s. While the second choice is much lighter, it is easier for larger predators to break into the hutch. Wire should be heavy duty 14 gauge welded wire mesh, not hardware cloth or chicken wire. Heavy duty wire will be sturdy enough to withstand all but the most determined large predators. Secure your wire to the cage with heavy duty staples that go into the wood at least half an inch. You can further secure the wire by adding a layer of wooden trim on top of the wire so it is framed in place.
All openings to the hutch should be latched securely. If the roof lifts off, fasten it with hinges and a latch. The door should also be attached with hinges and a secure latch. If the entire front is wire, including the door, attach the door using J clips or hog rings instead of hinges. The cage clasp may need to be reinforced with a loop of chain and a lock to keep predators from springing the clasp.
Put the hutch in a place where you can easily see the rabbits or near the house where the presence of people may help deter other animals. At the same time, you need to think about how much sun your chosen spot receives so your rabbit does not get overheated.
You'll rest easy, knowing your pet is safe from the neighborhood predators. It is best to take these precautions even if you live in town. Many smaller predators, like raccoons, opossums, and skunks have moved into residential areas.
Outdoors, rabbits face many more possible predators. Hawks, eagles, foxes, coyotes, raccoons, opossums, weasels and skunks may like a tasty rabbit dinner. Cats and dogs are also at risk for attacking your pet. They can't help it; it is their nature to hunt and rabbits are prey animals at the bottom of the food chain. It falls to the owners of the animals to keep them safe; or in the case of the dogs and cats, to keep them contained and away from rabbits and other animals they may hunt.
You can do a lot to protect your pet by building a secure rabbit hutch. Putting the hutch on legs helps get them off the ground where they are more tempting to smaller predators. You can even wrap the legs with chicken wire or hardware cloth to keep animals from going beneath the hutch. You can easily open one side when it is time to clean up the droppings unless you use a tray.
Make sure your hutch is built securely. Use strong wood screws when building it, not brads or small nails. Wood screws bite into the wood and don't work loose as easily as nails and brads. Use high quality wood and wire. Thick plywood and 2 x 4s will create a much stronger hutch than thin plywood and 1 x 1s. While the second choice is much lighter, it is easier for larger predators to break into the hutch. Wire should be heavy duty 14 gauge welded wire mesh, not hardware cloth or chicken wire. Heavy duty wire will be sturdy enough to withstand all but the most determined large predators. Secure your wire to the cage with heavy duty staples that go into the wood at least half an inch. You can further secure the wire by adding a layer of wooden trim on top of the wire so it is framed in place.
All openings to the hutch should be latched securely. If the roof lifts off, fasten it with hinges and a latch. The door should also be attached with hinges and a secure latch. If the entire front is wire, including the door, attach the door using J clips or hog rings instead of hinges. The cage clasp may need to be reinforced with a loop of chain and a lock to keep predators from springing the clasp.
Put the hutch in a place where you can easily see the rabbits or near the house where the presence of people may help deter other animals. At the same time, you need to think about how much sun your chosen spot receives so your rabbit does not get overheated.
You'll rest easy, knowing your pet is safe from the neighborhood predators. It is best to take these precautions even if you live in town. Many smaller predators, like raccoons, opossums, and skunks have moved into residential areas.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
How to Care For Your Lovely Pet Rabbit
Caring for rabbits is not entirely a bed of roses. On one hand, you would love how cute and cuddly they are, and how they adorable they look as they run around their hutch. Simply watching them would be a relaxing activity for you and you would enjoy it more whenever you would have the time to let them out and play with them.
However, it is also important to remember that rabbit care entails responsibilities. They require time and attention from you. Of course, you would be relieved to find out that they are not as difficult to tend to like other kinds of pets. To know more about general care for rabbits, read on to the following information below.
Housing
First, you have to find a cozy home for your pet. Common options include a rabbit cage, a hutch, an outdoor rabbit hutch, and a hutch and run. Buying a home for your pet rabbit is more than purchasing the first thing you see on the market.
For one, you have to ensure that you get the right size. The rule of the thumb is for you to get a hutch size that is four times the size of your rabbit. The height of the housing should also be higher than the length of your bunny. Large hutches work best because these types of housing give opportunity for rabbits to run around and get the exercise important for their health.
Aside from the size, you should also consider the material used. Stay away from materials that can pose danger to your little pet like wire and mesh. Opt for coated wire or wooden hutches instead. Moreover, place your rabbit's hutch in a safe place inside your home. If you live near a forest area, a good idea would be to purchase a Fox Proof rabbit hutch that can protect your pet efficiently.
Food
One option is to feed your rabbit with nutritious rabbit pellets. Just see to it that pellets are still fresh when you feed them to your rabbit because pellets with molds can upset your bunny's stomach. Other options would be hay, grass, and crunchy vegetables like carrots. It is important for rabbits to have something to chew on constantly, other than have something to eat. This is because bunnies love to gnaw and chew on things to prevent their teeth from overgrowing and inflicting pain in them.
Water
Provide fresh water to your rabbit daily. Unlike humans, rabbits are not able to derive water from their food so you need to keep them hydrated with a constant supply of water. Double the supply during warmer weather. Place water in water dish if your rabbit is not trained to use water bottles. Clean the water equipment regularly.
Play
Rabbits love to run around. If what you have bought for your pet is just a small hutch, you need to get your bunny out daily for exercise and active play. Better yet, purchase a large rabbit run so your pet would not be bored inside its hutch.
Caring for rabbits is not that simple but because they are very lovely creatures, you know that all your efforts and hard work are worth it.
However, it is also important to remember that rabbit care entails responsibilities. They require time and attention from you. Of course, you would be relieved to find out that they are not as difficult to tend to like other kinds of pets. To know more about general care for rabbits, read on to the following information below.
Housing
First, you have to find a cozy home for your pet. Common options include a rabbit cage, a hutch, an outdoor rabbit hutch, and a hutch and run. Buying a home for your pet rabbit is more than purchasing the first thing you see on the market.
For one, you have to ensure that you get the right size. The rule of the thumb is for you to get a hutch size that is four times the size of your rabbit. The height of the housing should also be higher than the length of your bunny. Large hutches work best because these types of housing give opportunity for rabbits to run around and get the exercise important for their health.
Aside from the size, you should also consider the material used. Stay away from materials that can pose danger to your little pet like wire and mesh. Opt for coated wire or wooden hutches instead. Moreover, place your rabbit's hutch in a safe place inside your home. If you live near a forest area, a good idea would be to purchase a Fox Proof rabbit hutch that can protect your pet efficiently.
Food
One option is to feed your rabbit with nutritious rabbit pellets. Just see to it that pellets are still fresh when you feed them to your rabbit because pellets with molds can upset your bunny's stomach. Other options would be hay, grass, and crunchy vegetables like carrots. It is important for rabbits to have something to chew on constantly, other than have something to eat. This is because bunnies love to gnaw and chew on things to prevent their teeth from overgrowing and inflicting pain in them.
Water
Provide fresh water to your rabbit daily. Unlike humans, rabbits are not able to derive water from their food so you need to keep them hydrated with a constant supply of water. Double the supply during warmer weather. Place water in water dish if your rabbit is not trained to use water bottles. Clean the water equipment regularly.
Play
Rabbits love to run around. If what you have bought for your pet is just a small hutch, you need to get your bunny out daily for exercise and active play. Better yet, purchase a large rabbit run so your pet would not be bored inside its hutch.
Caring for rabbits is not that simple but because they are very lovely creatures, you know that all your efforts and hard work are worth it.
Friday, March 12, 2010
Different Types of Bird Food
If you want to encourage birds into your garden then put out a variety of food for them. Birds will soon learn about their new source of food and you will start to see them visit your garden. It is also important to feed the birds in gardens as their natural sources of food are disappearing as hedgerows are being cut down and vast swathes of open land are being built on.
You can buy a variety of seed mixes formulated with particular species in mind such as robin or finch food. Smaller birds prefer straight foods such as millet or mixes that don't contain fillers such as wheat or oats. If you want to attract goldfinches try niger seed - this is a tonic that has been very popular in North America for a number of years and is now starting to gain popularity in Europe.
You can feed seed mixes to birds by putting directly on a ground feeder or bird table or you can buy special seed feeders. You will find that seed feeders tend to be more economical as there isn't the risk of seed blowing away in windy weather.
Sunflower hearts are another popular bird food as they are packed with essential energy. Although they are expensive birds will eat every last bit as there are no husks for them to discard. Black sunflower seeds are a cheaper alternative although some birds such as softbills will not eat the outer casings and you may find a lot of waste.
Peanuts are popular with most types of birds and you can feed them on a bird table or in a special peanut feeder. Choose unsalted nuts and buy them from a good supplier so they are free from aflatoxins which are very harmful and can be fatal to birds.
Never put out whole peanuts in the breeding season as baby birds can choke on them. Crush the peanuts or use a feeder so the adult birds can peck out small bits of nut for their chicks. Don't use netting to feed nuts to the birds in your garden as their feet and beaks can get tangled in them.
Chicks need a lot of protein as they develop and live bird food is ideal for this purpose. You can buy live mealworms from many pet suppliers or garden centres of if you are squeamish dried worms are a good alternative.
You can make a variety of home made bird feeders from left over food. Cut a fresh coconut in half and smear it with peanut butter and sprinkle with seeds. Or spread some dripping over a piece of stale toast and hang outside for the birds in your garden to eat. You can make a fat feeder by filling an old yoghurt carton with a mixture of melted suet, seeds, raisins and other kitchen scraps. When the mixture has set remove the plastic casing and hang from your bird table or a branch of a tree.
Birds will eat many left over kitchen scraps such as bacon rind, grated cheese, soaked dried fruit, the fat from the roasting tin and stale cake and bread crumbs. You can also put out tinned pet food but avoid cat and dog biscuits as birds can choke on them.
Plant berry bearing shrubs and trees such as rowan or holly and wildflowers to attract insects and caterpillars which are great natural sources of food. Sunflowers are fun to grow and at the end of the growing season you can leave the heads on the plants or remove the seeds and feed to birds in a feeder or on a bird table.
Once you start feeding the birds in your garden they will come back regularly and will learn that it is an ideal place for them to bring up their chicks as there is a plentiful supply of food to help the chicks grow.
You can buy a variety of seed mixes formulated with particular species in mind such as robin or finch food. Smaller birds prefer straight foods such as millet or mixes that don't contain fillers such as wheat or oats. If you want to attract goldfinches try niger seed - this is a tonic that has been very popular in North America for a number of years and is now starting to gain popularity in Europe.
You can feed seed mixes to birds by putting directly on a ground feeder or bird table or you can buy special seed feeders. You will find that seed feeders tend to be more economical as there isn't the risk of seed blowing away in windy weather.
Sunflower hearts are another popular bird food as they are packed with essential energy. Although they are expensive birds will eat every last bit as there are no husks for them to discard. Black sunflower seeds are a cheaper alternative although some birds such as softbills will not eat the outer casings and you may find a lot of waste.
Peanuts are popular with most types of birds and you can feed them on a bird table or in a special peanut feeder. Choose unsalted nuts and buy them from a good supplier so they are free from aflatoxins which are very harmful and can be fatal to birds.
Never put out whole peanuts in the breeding season as baby birds can choke on them. Crush the peanuts or use a feeder so the adult birds can peck out small bits of nut for their chicks. Don't use netting to feed nuts to the birds in your garden as their feet and beaks can get tangled in them.
Chicks need a lot of protein as they develop and live bird food is ideal for this purpose. You can buy live mealworms from many pet suppliers or garden centres of if you are squeamish dried worms are a good alternative.
You can make a variety of home made bird feeders from left over food. Cut a fresh coconut in half and smear it with peanut butter and sprinkle with seeds. Or spread some dripping over a piece of stale toast and hang outside for the birds in your garden to eat. You can make a fat feeder by filling an old yoghurt carton with a mixture of melted suet, seeds, raisins and other kitchen scraps. When the mixture has set remove the plastic casing and hang from your bird table or a branch of a tree.
Birds will eat many left over kitchen scraps such as bacon rind, grated cheese, soaked dried fruit, the fat from the roasting tin and stale cake and bread crumbs. You can also put out tinned pet food but avoid cat and dog biscuits as birds can choke on them.
Plant berry bearing shrubs and trees such as rowan or holly and wildflowers to attract insects and caterpillars which are great natural sources of food. Sunflowers are fun to grow and at the end of the growing season you can leave the heads on the plants or remove the seeds and feed to birds in a feeder or on a bird table.
Once you start feeding the birds in your garden they will come back regularly and will learn that it is an ideal place for them to bring up their chicks as there is a plentiful supply of food to help the chicks grow.
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Facts About Bird Bands
Have you ever wondered what that ring on your bird's leg is? And what about those cryptic numbers and letters on the rings? Are those some secret codes to the bird universe? Check out these Top Ten facts about bird bands to learn more.
People have been banding (or ringing, as it is called in Europe) birds for centuries.
The first record of a metal band attached to a bird's leg was about 1595 when one of Henry IV's banded Peregrine Falcons was lost in pursuit of a bustard in France. It showed up 24 hours later in Malta, about 1350 miles away, averaging 56 miles an hour!
In America, John James Audubon tied silver cords to the legs of a clutch of Eastern phoebes in 1803 near Philadelphia. He identified the birds when they returned to that area the following year.
Bands can be made of stainless steel, aluminum or plastic.
Bands come in a variety of colors and sizes
There are closed bands and open bands. Closed bands are seamless semipermanent bands placed on the bird at a very early age (2-3 weeks). As the bird grows, the leg becomes too big to slide out of the band. Open bands are usually bands placed on older birds with legs too large to fit inside a closed band. This may be an indication that the bird was wild caught. It may also be an indication that it was imported to the US.
All parrots imported into the United States prior to the Wild Bird Conservation Act (1992) received closed bands while they were in a USDA-approved quarantine station. This was used to indicate that the bird was legally imported into the US and to identify the bird in the future. These bands will have an ID number and the quarantining station code on the band. It will have 3 letters and 3 numbers (ABC 123). Bird smugglers can be sentenced up to 5 years in prison and fined up to $20,000 per violation if convicted.
Why was import banding started? A psittacosis pandemic swept the country (US) in 1929 and it was blamed on wild caught parrots imported as pets. Bands were implemented to identify birds that successfully passed through the 30 day quarantine stations. Some states at the time (California, Colorado and Connecticut) passed laws requiring that all parakeets (budgies) in their states be closed banded. The breeders were required to register with the state and issued coded leg bands to be placed on their hatchlings.
An improperly applied open band can be dangerous. Verify the band is correctly close to prevent it from catching on items (toys, ropes, etc). In most cases an improperly applied open band can be fixed by carefully closing the band. Special "Banding Pliers" should be used to apply or repair open bands to minimize the possibility of injuring the bird.
Is there an AAC on your bird's band? The AAC most likely stands for Avicultural Advancement Council of Canada and your bird was likely banded in Canada.
People have been banding (or ringing, as it is called in Europe) birds for centuries.
The first record of a metal band attached to a bird's leg was about 1595 when one of Henry IV's banded Peregrine Falcons was lost in pursuit of a bustard in France. It showed up 24 hours later in Malta, about 1350 miles away, averaging 56 miles an hour!
In America, John James Audubon tied silver cords to the legs of a clutch of Eastern phoebes in 1803 near Philadelphia. He identified the birds when they returned to that area the following year.
Bands can be made of stainless steel, aluminum or plastic.
Bands come in a variety of colors and sizes
There are closed bands and open bands. Closed bands are seamless semipermanent bands placed on the bird at a very early age (2-3 weeks). As the bird grows, the leg becomes too big to slide out of the band. Open bands are usually bands placed on older birds with legs too large to fit inside a closed band. This may be an indication that the bird was wild caught. It may also be an indication that it was imported to the US.
All parrots imported into the United States prior to the Wild Bird Conservation Act (1992) received closed bands while they were in a USDA-approved quarantine station. This was used to indicate that the bird was legally imported into the US and to identify the bird in the future. These bands will have an ID number and the quarantining station code on the band. It will have 3 letters and 3 numbers (ABC 123). Bird smugglers can be sentenced up to 5 years in prison and fined up to $20,000 per violation if convicted.
Why was import banding started? A psittacosis pandemic swept the country (US) in 1929 and it was blamed on wild caught parrots imported as pets. Bands were implemented to identify birds that successfully passed through the 30 day quarantine stations. Some states at the time (California, Colorado and Connecticut) passed laws requiring that all parakeets (budgies) in their states be closed banded. The breeders were required to register with the state and issued coded leg bands to be placed on their hatchlings.
An improperly applied open band can be dangerous. Verify the band is correctly close to prevent it from catching on items (toys, ropes, etc). In most cases an improperly applied open band can be fixed by carefully closing the band. Special "Banding Pliers" should be used to apply or repair open bands to minimize the possibility of injuring the bird.
Is there an AAC on your bird's band? The AAC most likely stands for Avicultural Advancement Council of Canada and your bird was likely banded in Canada.
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